ultimate travel guide

Sicily is beguilingly beautiful, a landscape of volcanoes, flower-strewn meadows, silvery olive groves and vineyards hemmed in by ancient dry stone walls. The horizon to the east is dominated by Etna’s brooding, 10,900ft hulk, often blanketed in snow and sometimes belching fumes and red-hot rivers of lava. Beaches? There are plenty of those too. Expect